There are specific elements that will will need to be taken into account before you breed bearded dragons. To start with, you have to mimic seasonal changes that naturally cause females to go into the, the term for this is pre-conditioning. Just before you start this pre conditioning both male and female bearded dragons should be in optimal health and at the correct age for mating. To care for your dragons you may also want to make use of a bearded dragon care sheet.
The photo-period is the first step, and it's expected to mimic wintertime. Your ultraviolet light will have to be on a timers and it ought to be set so that there is fourteen hours of darkness and ten hours of light. Slightly reduce the heat in the enclosure. The area that they normally bask in ought to be around 78 degrees Fahrenheit max; the other areas inside the enclosure ought to be kept between 64 to 67 Fahrenheit degrees. As you simulate the photo-period you will need to decrease the amount of food that is given to the mating pair. The photo-period normally lasts around 6 weeks after which you can resume the normal lighting schedule which is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.
After the photo-period ends, it is needed to supply supplemental food, including, if possible, high-fat foods like wax worms. This happens to be very vital because it will aid them in getting heavier, thus making them better breeders.
After four weeks have elapsed from the photo-period males and females should be kept together. If there are several pairs inside the tank you may notice that the males are very combative towards one another and they will commence to fight. Being submissive is a trait often seen in female bearded dragons at this time. You might see them gently bob their heads, or move upper extremities about. When the female is fertile, she will begin to look for a place, preferably one that is sunny and soft, to lay her eggs. You can furnish such an environment for the female with a mixture of sand and soil. Pregnancy will make it much a lot easier for you to tell their genders apart.
Keep track of exactly where the female has picked to lay her eggs. Once she moves on, remove the eggs with a spoon. It is vital that you do not rotate the eggs when you get them. Although you could make your own incubator, it would be simpler to buy one, which would also yield a much higher hatch rate. The temperature inside the incubator ought to be kept at 85 degrees Fahrenheit constantly, it should never fall below 83 degrees Fahrenheit. The area around the eggs will have to be kept moist which you can do by locating a small, open container of water at the bottom off the incubator. You will also have to regularly mist the eggs with water. At this point we have to talk about baby bearded dragon care.
Hatching time can take up to 24 hours, start to finish. The shell may collapse before the eggs commence to hatch. As soon as the baby dragons emerge they can be placed in the rearing tank. Hatchlings are very hungry and they will have to be fed often to be able to stop them from chewing on tails. There are some lizards whose tails re-grow, not bearded dragons. They ought to be fed very small crickets and wax worms. If the food is too large, it can cause illness or even death! As a rule of thumb, the bits of food should only be as sizeable as the space between their eyes. Daily feeding at least three times a day is essential until they are 4 months old. After four months it is no longer essential to eat more than once a day. Worms, flowers, and crickets ought to be included as a regular part of their diet.
The photo-period is the first step, and it's expected to mimic wintertime. Your ultraviolet light will have to be on a timers and it ought to be set so that there is fourteen hours of darkness and ten hours of light. Slightly reduce the heat in the enclosure. The area that they normally bask in ought to be around 78 degrees Fahrenheit max; the other areas inside the enclosure ought to be kept between 64 to 67 Fahrenheit degrees. As you simulate the photo-period you will need to decrease the amount of food that is given to the mating pair. The photo-period normally lasts around 6 weeks after which you can resume the normal lighting schedule which is 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.
After the photo-period ends, it is needed to supply supplemental food, including, if possible, high-fat foods like wax worms. This happens to be very vital because it will aid them in getting heavier, thus making them better breeders.
After four weeks have elapsed from the photo-period males and females should be kept together. If there are several pairs inside the tank you may notice that the males are very combative towards one another and they will commence to fight. Being submissive is a trait often seen in female bearded dragons at this time. You might see them gently bob their heads, or move upper extremities about. When the female is fertile, she will begin to look for a place, preferably one that is sunny and soft, to lay her eggs. You can furnish such an environment for the female with a mixture of sand and soil. Pregnancy will make it much a lot easier for you to tell their genders apart.
Keep track of exactly where the female has picked to lay her eggs. Once she moves on, remove the eggs with a spoon. It is vital that you do not rotate the eggs when you get them. Although you could make your own incubator, it would be simpler to buy one, which would also yield a much higher hatch rate. The temperature inside the incubator ought to be kept at 85 degrees Fahrenheit constantly, it should never fall below 83 degrees Fahrenheit. The area around the eggs will have to be kept moist which you can do by locating a small, open container of water at the bottom off the incubator. You will also have to regularly mist the eggs with water. At this point we have to talk about baby bearded dragon care.
Hatching time can take up to 24 hours, start to finish. The shell may collapse before the eggs commence to hatch. As soon as the baby dragons emerge they can be placed in the rearing tank. Hatchlings are very hungry and they will have to be fed often to be able to stop them from chewing on tails. There are some lizards whose tails re-grow, not bearded dragons. They ought to be fed very small crickets and wax worms. If the food is too large, it can cause illness or even death! As a rule of thumb, the bits of food should only be as sizeable as the space between their eyes. Daily feeding at least three times a day is essential until they are 4 months old. After four months it is no longer essential to eat more than once a day. Worms, flowers, and crickets ought to be included as a regular part of their diet.
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